GRACE ALBRITTON
Talk given by Anne Holland at the meeting
Most of you will be aware that our Grace Albritton won best formal double and Grand Champion bloom at the Camellia Show this year. We have had this camellia for about 18 years and it is only in the past few years that it has done well at the camellia show. In 2009 it won a first and a second and that year it won the best named Camilla in its section. In 2008 it received a first and a second. In 2007 a first and in 2006 a highly commended. Prior to that it did not receive any awards.
Grace Albritton was a 10 year old chance japonica seedling, which first bloomed 1967.
Originated in USA by AD Albritton, Tallahassee, Florida.
Plant growth is average and has dark green leaves, 7.5cm x 3.5cm. The formal double has perfectly imbricated petals ,the light pink flower measures 7cm across x 2.5 cm deep. It has 50 to 60 petals with no stamens or pistils. Each petal is tipped darker pink and it blooms mid season .
Grace albritton received the William E Wylam Miniature Award in 1979, the John Illges Award in 1978 and the National Camellia Hall of Fame Award in 1980.
It has several sports – Grace Albritton Blush, Grace Albritton Flair, Grace Albritton Pink, Grace Albritton Starfire, Grace Albritton White, Graces Sweet Pea
Information on Grace Albritton taken from – The International Camellia Register complied by Tom Savige
C. japonica ‘Grace Albritton’ – grown by Steve & Anne Holland
Champion Bloom Albury Camellia Show 2010
Sheriden’s Wonderful Garden:
Sheriden’s Chickens
Crabapple (left) Judas Tree (centre)
Crabapple & Judas Tree
C. hybrid ‘Spring Fanfare’ – one of Tom Savige’s camellias
Champion Bloom of October Blooms Competition
C. japonica ‘San Dimas’ – grown by Keith & Gloria Younger – Wangaratta
Gloria Younger speaking on Irises
Bearded Iris
Gloria Younger
Bearded Iris are divided into categories determined by their height.
Miniature Dwarf Bearded: 20cm and under. These tiny spring flowering irises are ideal for rockery or a sunny border, but must be protected from frost.
Standard Dwarf Bearded: 20-38cm. Slightly taller than Miniature Dwarfs, they come in all colours and combinations, thumbprint on the falls. Plants are suitable for pots and garden borders. They increase in numbers rapidly.
Intermediate Bearded: 38-80cm. These wonderful bloomers are a great picking flower and are good for indoors. They have lots of flowers per stem, many colour combinations and flower after the Dwarfs.
Border Bearded: 38-71cm. When planted in front of the Tall Bearded they make a great show as they usually flower with the Talls.
Tall Bearded: 80cm and over. These are brash and bold, both in colour and sizes available. Best in a larger garden towards the back, but leave room for increasing as they do this rapidly. The newer space age Iris can have horns, spoons and flounces on the ends of the beards. Also the way Talls are trending is with lacing on the standard falls with lots of ruffles and frills, which provides another division for showing.
The categories are:
· SELF: The flowers are all one colour, both standards and falls.
· PLICATAS: The flowers have a stitched edging.
· BICOLOURS: Standards a different colour to the falls.
· BITONES: Standard and falls are two shades of the same colour.
· AMOENAS: White standards, coloured falls.
· NEGLECTA: Blue standards, darker falls.
· REVERSE AMOENA: Blue or purple standards, white falls.
· VARIEGATAS: Standards yellow, falls in dark shades of brown, red or purple.
Growing Conditions. At least half a days sun, preferably more. They should get the rhizome covered by 1-2cm of soil so they do not get sunburnt or get rot. But remember, do not plant too deep as the heat of the summer sun and the winter chill is needed for good flowering. Most books are of English origin and recommend planting with the rhizome exposed, however this does not apply to our conditions.
The leaves should not be cut back unless being divided and replanted. This is because the roots will have been cut short and the plant would tip over with a long top. Best cut back to 15-20cms. Other times just pull off any of the old leaves that look diseased.
Most Iris should be divided every three years on average. More Iris are killed with kindness through overwatering, use of high nitrogen fertilisers, and mulching over the rhizome, as all these can cause rhizome rot. These plants can be saved by cutting off the rotten portion and spraying with bleach, or by digging up the plant and let it dry in the sun. Mulch can be used over the root area but not the rhizome.
When planting in summer water twice per week for the first few weeks, then when new leaves start to grow cut the watering back to once every two weeks. Once established there is no need to water them.
When planting use Osmocote 9 month and Organic Life in the hole. Cover with a little soil so no fertiliser touches the rhizome.
Iris can get a leaf spot fungus usually caused by overhead watering, rain in warmer weather, or high humidity. You can spray for this but the fungus does not affect the quality of the bloom.
Some of the Irises grown at Wangaratta by Keith & Gloria Younger
Hume Camellia Society 